The Underrated Trails Within the San Rafael Swell

A vast landscape of winding gorges carved deep by rivers, multi-colored sandstone mountains and mysterious slot canyons might just be one of the state’s best (yet least known) places to explore. The San Rafael Swell extends nearly 3,000 square miles across south-central Utah, where it is crossed by only one interstate. This massive geologic feature is the result of a fold in the earth’s crust formed 60 to 40 million years ago by compression forces pushing up layers of rock.

Hundreds of miles of dirt roads and off-highway-vehicle trails crisscross the region, providing access to the remote canyons, waterways and ancient petroglyph sites found in the Swell. It's a lot to take in. And early in 2019, S.47, the John D. Dingell, Jr. Conservation, Management, and Recreation Act public lands bill designated the area San Rafael Swell Recreation Area, inclusive of multiple new wilderness designations and an upgrade of Cleveland-Lloyd Dinosaur Quarry to Jurassic National Monument.

Explore this landscape by foot on designated hiking trails, dirt roads or excursions through slot canyons or along canyon rims for a true sense of the isolated beauty that epitomizes the Swell. Here are some of the area’s top destinations to get you started on your next Utah trip.

The Goblin’s Lair

Tucked behind the cliffs off Highway 24 between the towns of Green River and Hanksville lies the beautifully bizarre landscape of Goblin Valley State Park. Minerals deposited 170 million years ago by an ancient inland sea have been sculpted by nature over time, creating a valley of eroded rock formations resembling animals or gnomes and earning their nickname from locals: goblins.

Hiking around the valley offers an up-close-and-personal look at these other-worldly stone creatures. At the eastern edge of the park, an adventurous three-mile hike leads to The Goblin’s Lair — a unique cavern-like formation with rock walls reaching up to 100 feet. From the Observation Point Trailhead, start on the Carmel Canyon Loop Trail. After making your way up and down a series of short sand dunes for about a half a mile, a marked trail for The Goblin’s Lair veers off to the right.

Another mile brings you around to the backside of Goblin Valley’s cliff walls and the mouth of the lair. Some fun scrambling through the boulders strewn about the lair’s entrance takes you inside the chamber. At midday, light streams brilliantly through small openings in the cavern ceiling. After exploring the lair, follow the same trail back to the start. Goblin Valley State Park charges a day-use fee to enter and also has reservable campsites and yurts available.

Little Wild Horse Canyon & Bell Canyon Loop

Little Wild Horse and Bell Canyons offer slot canyon exploring at its finest. Venturing through the canyons brings you into a labyrinth of curving sandstone walls — at times narrow enough to fit only one person — peppered with small grottoes and pockets in the layers of stone. Linking up the two canyons makes a loop of about eight miles and provides the uncommon opportunity to explore such long and narrow chasms without canyoneering equipment or technical skills.

Head of Sinbad Pictograph Trail

One of the most well-preserved pictographs in the world lies hidden in a set of cliff bands just beside Interstate 70. Striking for their rich red color and impressive size, these pictographs exemplify the Barrier Canyon Style of panel that dates back thousands of years.

The length of a hike to see these magnificent panels depends on the accessibility of the dirt roads leading to it from the highway. Recent storms can render these roads impassable, and sections of deep sand can pose a challenge for two-wheel-drive vehicles. Be prepared to walk anywhere between a half-mile and 3.5 miles out-and-back to the pictographs.

To make the most of this off-the-beaten-path excursion, combine it with the nearby hiking trail to Dutchman Arch, a visit to historic Swasey Cabin and the Lone Warrior Panel Site. You’ll find all of these points of interest are about 35 miles west of Green River, Utah, via a series of dirt roads along Interstate 70.

Protecting Petroglyph Panels

Always Respect and Protect panels and archeological sites. Petroglyphs are an important part of our human and national heritage and can be fragile. Follow Leave No Trace principles so future hikers have the same experience and sense of discovery that you do.

The Petroglyph Code

Follow these guidelines from the Petroglyph Code to protect and preserve these amazing petroglyph panels:

• Don’t touch the panels. Oil from your hands degrades the rock surface.
• Don’t disturb panel sites or nearby ruins. Picking up pieces of pottery or digging in soil disturbs the area and leads to erosion.
• Don’t make fires near panel sites.
• Don’t enhance the petroglyphs with chalk, liquid, or paint.
• Don’t make rubbings, molds or castings of petroglyphs.
• Don’t carve, chisel, scratch, engrave, spray paint or write on the panels. This not only mars the petroglyphs but is a federal crime.
• Don’t try to remove or take anything from cliffs or boulders. It is vandalism and a federal crime, with stiff penalties including fines and imprisonment.
• Do enjoy the ancient petroglyphs, take lots of photos, act responsibly and help preserve our prehistoric legacy and heritage.

The San Rafael Swell may not be the easiest place to get to, but you’ll be glad you put in the effort to explore this unique section of Utah.