A Journey Along Utah’s Scenic Byway 12

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Burr Trail | Ryan Salm

From Capitol Reef to Bryce Canyon, roll the windows down and trust the landscape to do the rest. Utah's Scenic Byway 12 is a route that rewards both the planners and the improvisers.

There’s a certain kind of freedom that only exists in Southern Utah. You can spend months charting every overlook, slot canyon and sandstone ridge on a map, or you can point the hood of your truck toward whatever impossible formation rises from the desert floor and trust the landscape to do the rest. Scenic Byway 12 rewards both kinds of travelers equally.

Our journey began outside of Torrey, where sagebrush flats and pine-covered hills slowly gave way to the crimson folds of Capitol Reef Country. The transformation happens almost without warning. One moment you’re driving through open ranchland beneath an endless sky; the next, the earth appears cracked open into towering layers of sandstone sculpted by wind, water and geologic time. It’s the kind of country that makes you roll the windows down and drive a little slower.

After a quick stop at the Capitol Burger food truck on Torrey's Main Street, a pale rock outcropping caught our eye beside the road. Plans changed instantly. That’s the unwritten rule out here: if something looks worth exploring, you pull over. The formation, known as the Cockscomb, rose from the desert beneath a ceiling of spring storm clouds, beckoning us into the wandering Southern Utah does best.

From there, Byway 12 climbed over Boulder Mountain, trading red rock for alpine forest and lingering snowfields. An elk grazed quietly in distant meadows while hawks perched on weathered snags overlooking the valleys below. Spring seemed undecided at elevation, with budding aspens frozen somewhere between thaw and snowfall.

By the time we dropped into Boulder and turned onto the Burr Trail, the trip had settled into its rhythm: part road trip, part improvisation, part pilgrimage through one of the most geologically unique landscapes on earth. The days blurred together in the best possible way — slot canyons and hidden waterfalls balanced by long farm-to-table dinners and desert sunsets over Kodachrome Basin. Nights ended beneath impossible stars, guitars and harmonicas echoing through campfire smoke while the silence of the desert waited patiently between songs.

Some of my favorite road trip memories happen in the in-between moments, those times when you pull over to reflect on the miles behind you, only to stumble into a scene like this near Tropic, Utah, before continuing down the road to see what awaits around the next bend.

Photo: Ryan Salm

After days of moving from one beautiful destination to the next, there’s nothing quite like a little rest and relaxation. Before leaving Kodachrome Basin State Park and pointing the truck toward Red Canyon, my friend Brit Black took a few quiet moments for a sunrise serenade.

Photo: Ryan Salm

From sun-drenched expanses of open desert to some of the darkest, narrowest slot canyons imaginable (Pictured: Spooky Slot Canyon off Hole-in-the-Rock Road), the Byway 12 corridor offers an endless range of adventure. All you need is a vehicle with a little clearance, a healthy appetite for exploration, a reasonable level of fitness and a couple of liters of water.

Photo: Ryan Salm

One of the things I love most about returning to Southern Utah year after year is discovering the places I’ve somehow overlooked. Sometimes all it takes is a new name on a map or a forgotten signpost to open the door to another piece of this seemingly endless maze of canyons, mesas and backroads. (Pictured: Devil's Garden off Hole-in-the-Rock Road)

Photo: Ryan Salm

And then there’s the food. Somehow, improbably tucked into these rugged landscapes are some of Utah’s most memorable restaurants. North Creek Grill in Escalante is one of them. Sourcing ingredients from local farms and producers, Chef Brendan Kawakami crafts a menu inspired by flavors from around the world—a must-visit stop for anyone exploring the region.

Photo: Ryan Salm

"The desert reveals itself in countless ways, but few are as captivating as a spring storm. As clouds build overhead and the air begins to cool, the colors of the Escalante corridor seems to deepen and come alive. It’s a remarkable blend of grit, beauty and raw atmosphere."

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

The start of the Escalante River Trail just south of Byway 12 offers a peek at the desert plant life.

Photo: Ryan Salm

In an attempt to get lost and hide from the masses, I often drive past Calf Creek on my trips to the Grand Staircase, opting for alternative destinations instead. Little did I realize what I had been missing at this stunning, refreshing side trip.

Photo: Ryan Salm

Built by Bradshaw Bowman along with family and friends in 1998, Kiva Koffeehouse is the perfect coffee stop along Byway 12. It’s a blend of architecture and nature, seamlessly situated in the surrounding countryside. It’s also a great spot to meet fellow travelers and stop for a snack.

Photo: Ryan Salm

After hours behind the wheel, there’s no better feeling than stepping onto slickrock and heading toward the unknown. As Brit and I descended into Upper Calf Creek, neither of us could help but feel like kids again, drawn forward by equal parts curiosity and adventure.

Photo: Ryan Salm

While wandering this region, it’s impossible not to think about the Native people who called this landscape home long before us. The Anasazi State Park Museum in Boulder, Utah, offers a fascinating glimpse into that history through its archaeological site, artifacts and remarkably preserved pottery.

Photo: Ryan Salm

The zigs and zags of the highways and backroads — like the Burr Trail — are one of the many reasons I keep returning to this area. The stories behind these roads, the countless overlooks and the ever-changing perspectives make this region a dream for both exploration and photography.

Photo: Ryan Salm

"The straightaways, the curves, the switchbacks and the hogsbacks. The sand, the stone and the towering canyons. Places like this have a way of reminding us just how small we are, and just how lucky we are to experience landscapes this extraordinary."

Singing Canyon. I never even knew that was its name. It wasn’t until Brit Black and I made a nighttime pilgrimage with guitars in hand that I fully appreciated the magic of the place. With some of the finest natural acoustics imaginable, every note and song seemed to linger long after it was played.

Photo: Ryan Salm

Torrey to Panguitch. Panguitch to Torrey. It hardly matters which direction you travel on Byway 12. Every canyon, overlook, side road and park contributes another piece to the spectacular puzzle that makes this corner of Utah so unforgettable.

Photo: Ryan Salm

On our last day, we headed west through Red Canyon, leaving behind the mountains, canyons and scenery of the Grand Staircase. Launching my drone, I was immediately mesmerized by how vast this gateway to Bryce Canyon really is, with its infinitely deep, saturated reds.

Photo: Ryan Salm

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About the Author – Ryan Salm

Ryan Salm never misses a moment to step completely out of his comfort zone and try and keep up with athletes who are in way better shape than he is. After all, how else would he gather the photographs and stories to tell afterward? Combining his passions with a deep client base and the ability to produce award-winning work keeps him continuously creating high-caliber content across genre lines. Follow him at ryansalmphotography.com and @ryansalmphotography.